The city's identity was built on cashew processing and an ancient port, and its landscape is still defined by the lake and the sea that made both possible.
Where you actually are
Kollam sits on the Arabian Sea coast in south Kerala, at the point where the Ashtamudi Lake opens into the sea through a narrow bar. The town centre is on the coast, within a couple of kilometres of the shore, and the lake spreads east and north from there, a large brackish water body with islands and a network of canals. The terrain is low and flat, typical of the Kerala backwater belt, and the coastline runs northwest to southeast. To the east, the land rises gradually towards the Western Ghats, but the town itself is on the coastal plain.
The shape of Kollam is dictated by water. The Ashtamudi Lake, the second largest in Kerala, provides a sheltered harbour and a transport corridor that was used for centuries before roads. The sea to the west gave the town its ancient port, and the two together made Kollam a natural meeting point for trade. The city has grown along the lake's western and northern shores, with the business district near the coast and residential areas spreading inland. The presence of the lake also means that many parts of the city are on reclaimed land or on narrow spits between water bodies.
Why is Kollam shaped this way? Because its economy and its connections have always been maritime. The port, the lake, and the canals were the original infrastructure, and the road and rail links came later, following the same logic. The railway line runs roughly parallel to the coast, and the main road, NH 66, does the same. The town's expansion has been constrained by the water on one side and the need to connect to the interior on the other. The result is a city that feels linear along the coast, with a dense core near the port and the lake, and a more scattered edge where the land allows. The orientation of Kollam is further complicated by the presence of several islands in the Ashtamudi Lake, some of which are inhabited and connected by bridges. The most prominent is the one that houses the district administration and some residential areas. The lake also has a number of small canals that penetrate the city, and these have historically been used for transport and drainage. The sea is never far from sight or mind, and the smell of salt and fish is part of the everyday experience. The town's geography is thus a constant reminder of its maritime past and its dependence on the water.
A port town with a long trading history
Kollam has been a significant port since at least the first centuries of the common era, when it was known to Greek and Roman traders as a source of pepper and other spices. The town appears in early Tamil literature and in the accounts of travellers from the Mediterranean and China. Its location at the mouth of the Ashtamudi Lake gave it a sheltered harbour and access to the interior through the backwaters, which made it a natural entrepot for goods moving between the coast and the hinterland. The trade was not just in spices but also in textiles, ivory, and later in cashew, which became the defining commodity.
The colonial period brought the Portuguese, the Dutch, and then the British, each of whom recognised the value of the port. The Portuguese built a fort here in the sixteenth century, and the Dutch took over in the seventeenth. The British established a factory and later moved the administrative centre to Thiruvananthapuram, but Kollam remained an important commercial town. The cashew industry, introduced by the Portuguese from the Americas, took root in the nineteenth century and transformed the local economy. The town became a major processing and export centre for cashew kernels, drawing workers from across the region.
In the modern era, Kollam became a district headquarters and a municipal corporation, and its economy diversified. The port declined in relative importance as larger ports like Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram took over, but the cashew industry remained a major employer until the late twentieth century. Today, the town is also known for its educational institutions, its fishing harbour, and its role as a gateway to the backwaters. The history of Kollam is thus a story of adaptation, from ancient spice port to colonial outpost to modern administrative and commercial centre, always tied to the water.
Cashew processing and the town's industrial past
The cashew industry is the single most important thread in Kollam's modern identity. Cashew was brought to India by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century, but it was in the nineteenth century that large scale processing began in Kollam. The town's port and its access to labour made it ideal for the industry, and by the early twentieth century, Kollam was the cashew capital of India. The factories, many of them small and family run, employed thousands of workers, particularly women, who shelled and peeled the nuts. The industry shaped the town's social fabric and its skyline, with warehouses and processing units clustering near the port and the railway.
At its peak, the cashew trade supported a large workforce and generated significant export earnings. The nuts were imported from Africa and Southeast Asia, processed in Kollam, and then exported to markets in Europe and North America. The industry was labour intensive and provided employment to a wide section of society. However, from the late twentieth century, competition from other countries and changes in global trade patterns led to a decline. Many factories closed, and the number of workers fell. The decline had a profound impact on the local economy and led to efforts to diversify.
Despite the decline, cashew processing still exists in Kollam, and the town retains its association with the trade. The Kerala State Cashew Development Corporation and other bodies have tried to revive the sector, and some units continue to operate. The legacy is visible in the architecture of the older parts of town, in the presence of cashew warehouses, and in the collective memory of the workforce. For visitors, the cashew story is a reminder of how global commodity chains have shaped local places, and it remains a point of pride for the town.
Ashtamudi Lake and the backwater economy
Ashtamudi Lake is the geographical heart of Kollam and the reason for its existence as a port. The lake is a large brackish water body that opens to the sea through a narrow channel, creating a natural harbour. Its name means 'eight coned' in Malayalam, referring to the eight arms or channels that branch out from the main body. The lake is dotted with islands, some of which are inhabited, and its shores are lined with coconut palms and fishing villages. The lake is also a major source of livelihood, supporting fishing, clam collection, and tourism.
The backwaters of Ashtamudi are part of the larger Kerala backwater system, and they connect Kollam to Alappuzha and other towns via a network of canals. In the past, these waterways were the primary means of transport for goods and people, and they still carry a significant amount of traffic, especially for tourism. Houseboats and smaller boats ply the lake, offering views of the shoreline and the daily life of the communities that live on the water. The lake is also important for its biodiversity, with mangroves and wetlands that support a variety of bird and fish species.
The economy of the lake has changed over time. Traditional fishing and clam fishing continue, but tourism has become increasingly important. The lake is a starting point for backwater cruises, and the Kollam to Alappuzha route is one of the most popular. The presence of the lake also poses challenges, such as pollution and the need to balance development with conservation. The Ashtamudi Lake is a Ramsar site, recognised for its ecological importance, and efforts are ongoing to protect it. For the town, the lake is both a resource and a responsibility, and its health is tied to the town's future.
Thangassery: the old port and the lighthouse
Thangassery is the historic port area of Kollam, a narrow spit of land that juts into the sea just south of the town centre. It was here that the Portuguese built their fort in the sixteenth century, and later the Dutch and the British maintained trading posts. The area is now a quiet neighbourhood with a mix of old buildings, churches, and the remains of the fort. The Thangassery lighthouse, a tall cylindrical tower painted with red and white bands, is a major landmark and offers a panoramic view of the coast and the lake. The lighthouse is still active and is maintained by the Directorate General of Lighthouses and Lightships.
The beach at Thangassery is a long stretch of sand, not heavily developed, and is popular for walks and sunsets. The sea here can be rough, and swimming is not advisable. The area also has a fishing harbour, where traditional boats and mechanised trawlers operate. The harbour is a busy place in the early morning when the catch is brought in. The presence of the port and the lighthouse gives Thangassery a distinct character, different from the commercial bustle of the main town. It is a place where the layers of history are visible, from the colonial fort to the modern lighthouse.
In recent years, Thangassery has seen some development as a tourist spot, with a few cafes and guesthouses appearing. However, it retains a somewhat dilapidated charm, with crumbling walls and overgrown lots. The Kerala State Archaeology Department has taken steps to protect the fort remains, and the lighthouse is a popular attraction. For visitors, Thangassery offers a glimpse of the town's maritime past and a chance to see the sea up close. The walk from the town centre to Thangassery is short and pleasant, passing through residential areas and along the coast.
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