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Journal Wild Eravikulam · 2,000 m

Counting tahrin the shola

An essay on how the Nilgiri tahr is counted in Eravikulam National Park, what the annual census can and cannot settle, and why the figures decide what the park allows.

3,767 words 18 minutes Updated Mar 2026

A population figure for a mountain goat is a political object. It sets how many people enter a national park, when the gate shuts, and what a state says about its own conservation record. In the shola grassland above Munnar, the Nilgiri tahr is counted annually by the Kerala Forest Department, and the number that emerges is smaller and more contested than the publicity around it suggests.

Why a count becomes a decision

A population figure for a mountain goat is not a fact that sits still. In the shola grassland above Munnar it is the input to a set of administrative decisions: how many visitors a national park can admit in a day, how many guards and watchers are posted on which beats, when a tourism zone is shut, and what a state government says about its own record on endangered species. The Nilgiri tahr count in Eravikulam National Park is therefore read as a management instrument first and as science second, and the distinction matters when the number moves in either direction.

The Kerala Forest Department runs the annual census and publishes the outcome. In recent years the exercise has been carried out in synchrony with the Tamil Nadu forest department, because the tahr's range crosses the state boundary along the Western Ghats and an animal counted on one side of a ridge is the same animal that may be counted on the other. A synchronised count reduces the risk of double counting and gives a single figure for a landscape rather than two figures for two jurisdictions. The department, not the tourism industry and not the press, is the authority for the number.

That number then travels. It appears in the department's own reporting, in the state's conservation claims, in applications for central funding, in environmental clearances for roads and hydel projects near the park boundary, and in the visitor rules that the public actually encounters at the gate. A rise is cited as proof that protection works. A fall invites questions about grazing pressure, disease, habitat fragmentation and the honesty of earlier counts. Neither reading is automatically correct, but both are made, and both have consequences for how the grassland is managed in the following season.

The practical point for a traveller or a reader is that the count is a decision before it is a datum. If the figure is used to set a daily visitor ceiling, then a change in the figure changes who gets in and when the park closes for the year. If the figure is used to justify staff numbers, then a low count can mean fewer people on patrol in the very habitat that is being counted. This page treats the tahr number as an administrative object with a source, the Kerala Forest Department, and with a purpose that is partly conservation and partly institutional.

There is also a calendar dimension that is easy to miss. The count is not continuous. It is an event, held on particular days, staffed by particular people, and reported afterwards. Between counts the population is unobserved in any systematic way, and management decisions continue on the strength of the last published figure. That lag, between one count and the next, is where most of the argument about the tahr actually lives, and it is the reason the method and not only the total deserves scrutiny.

The animal and its narrow range

The Nilgiri tahr is a stocky wild goat, dark brown to grey in the adult male and lighter in the female and young, with short curved horns and a sure footing on rock. It is endemic to the Western Ghats and to the high country of the Nilgiri and Anaimalai hills and the ranges between them. Its world is small: a scatter of grassy summits and escarpments separated by forested valleys that the animal will not readily cross. Survey of India maps place the tahr's typical ground above roughly 1,200 m, with the densest concentrations on open grassland above about 2,000 m.

The habitat that matters is shola-grassland: patches of stunted evergreen forest in the folds and gullies, set in a matrix of montane grass on the slopes and plateaus. The tahr grazes the grass and uses the shola edge for shade, shelter and escape. This is a fire-shaped and frost-shaped landscape, not a true treeline forest, and it exists in Kerala in a narrow band of high country around Munnar and to its south and east. Alter the grass, by grazing, by fire suppression, by the spread of invasive woody growth, and the animal loses its forage.

Altitude is where the mapping gets precise. The Survey of India gives the heights; the tahr's range is best described as the highest grassland in the state, from about 1,200 m upward, with Eravikulam's tourism zone and the surrounding plateau sitting near 2,000 m and the highest ground above that. Anamudi, the state's highest peak, rises within the same massif. The point of naming the altitude is not scenery. It is that the tahr's total available habitat in Kerala is a small fraction of the state's area, and most of it lies inside a protected area.

The species is classified as endangered on the IUCN Red List, and the population is fragmented into subpopulations that do not regularly exchange animals. Fragmentation is the structural risk: a local decline or a disease outbreak in one grassland block cannot be cushioned by immigration from another if the intervening forest is unsuitable. That is why the count is concentrated where it is, and why the count's geography, block by block, matters as much as the headline total. A single figure for the whole range conceals the patchiness that the animal actually lives with.

Eravikulam and the tourism machine

Eravikulam National Park, established in the 1970s and lying north of Munnar in Idukki district, holds the largest single population of Nilgiri tahr anywhere. The park's core is high grassland and shola, and the tahr there are habituated to people to a degree rare elsewhere, which is precisely why the park became the place where the public sees the animal and where the count is most visible. The tourism zone is a bounded section of the plateau, reached on foot from a roadhead, and the animals in it are the ones most visitors photograph.

That visibility creates a management problem with an obvious solution. If the tahr in the tourism zone are the park's main attraction, then the number of people admitted must be limited, the hours of admission must be fixed, and the zone must be closed when the animals are most vulnerable. The visitor operation is therefore tied directly to the census: the count informs how the department justifies the ceiling on daily entries, the deployment of watchers along the path, and the annual shutdown. The park's rules are not arbitrary; they are the count translated into gates and rosters.

The uncomfortable part is that the tourism zone is not the whole park and the animals there are not the whole population. A visitor who sees dozens of tahr at close range may reasonably conclude that the species is thriving. The census exists partly to correct that impression, because the same count that supports the visitor ceiling also shows how much of the population sits outside the habituated zone, in blocks that no tourist ever reaches. The park's public face and the species' actual distribution are different maps, and the department holds both.

Eravikulam is also a park with a history of boundary and access disputes, of grazing questions on its fringes, and of pressure from the road and tourism economy of Munnar. The count does not resolve those disputes, but it is the number that each side reaches for. For a reader planning a visit, the practical consequence is that the park's opening, its daily limits and its closure dates are administrative decisions that move, and the authority to check is the Kerala Forest Department, not a hotel desk or a travel agent. Treat any fixed schedule quoted second-hand as provisional.

Chinese fishing nets on the Fort Kochi waterfront.

How the bounded count works

The annual census in Eravikulam is a block count, sometimes called a bounded count. The park and its adjoining grassland are divided into blocks, each small enough to be searched by a team in a defined period, and each team records the tahr it sees within its own block. Blocks are counted simultaneously or near-simultaneously so that animals moving between adjacent blocks are less likely to be recorded twice. The total is the sum of the block totals, adjusted by the department where obvious duplication is suspected. It is a direct count, not a statistical estimate from a sample.

The teams are a mix of forest staff, who know the ground and the animal's habits, and volunteers, often students and naturalists, who extend the number of eyes available on a single day. Volunteers are briefed on how to record group size, age class where possible, and location, and they work under a staff member's direction. The method's strength is coverage: a large area is searched in a short window. Its weakness is that it depends on visibility, on weather, and on the skill of observers who may be seeing the animal for the first time.

Several assumptions carry the figure. The first is that most animals in a block are seen, which is doubtful in tall grass, in shola edge, and on broken ground. The second is that blocks are independent, which fails when tahr move across boundaries during the count. The third is that a single day is representative, which it is not: tahr shift with temperature, mist and disturbance, and a cold, wet morning will produce a lower count than a clear one without any change in the population. The department knows these limits; the published total rarely carries them.

A count of this kind is best understood as an index rather than a census in the strict sense. It is comparable from year to year only if the method, the block boundaries, the season and the weather are broadly similar, and even then the confidence around the total is wider than the precision of the number suggests. That does not make the exercise worthless. A consistent index, repeated annually by the same agency, can show direction over time. What it cannot do is support fine distinctions between one year's figure and the next, and it should not be quoted as if it could.

The calving closure and the calendar

Eravikulam National Park closes to visitors for a stretch each year around the calving season of the Nilgiri tahr. The closure is not a tourism convenience dressed as conservation: it is a management measure with a stated biological reason. Tahr give birth on the open grassland and on the rock faces above it, and a newborn is vulnerable for its first days. A park that admits a steady stream of people into the tourism zone during that window disturbs mothers and young at the point where the population is most exposed. The closure removes that pressure for the weeks that matter most.

The mechanism is simple to state and easy to misread. The park shuts, the tourism zone is left alone, and the animals use the grass and the cliff ledges without the movement of visitors below them. The closure is not a full reserve closure in the sense of banning all entry: forest staff, researchers and essential management work continue. What stops is public access to the visitor zone. Anyone planning a Munnar trip around the early months of the year should treat the closure as a fixed feature of the calendar rather than a rumour, and should check the current dates before booking anything.

Dates move. The calving window is not a fixed public holiday, and the Kerala Forest Department publishes the closure for each season, along with any change to it, through its own notifications and the park's official channels. This page does not print the dates because a printed date would be wrong within a year. The honest answer is that the park decides the window on biological grounds, announces it, and expects visitors to plan around it. A travel operator who claims to know the dates in advance without pointing to the department's own notification is guessing, and the guess is not worth the trip.

The closure has a second effect that receives less attention: it concentrates visitor pressure into the open months. When the park reopens the tourism zone, the numbers rise sharply, and the tahr in the accessible area carry the disturbance that the closure had removed. That is a management trade-off, not an accident. The closure protects the calving season; it does not reduce the annual total of people walking the same path. For a traveller, the practical consequence is that the reopened period is busy, the path is a single route with a known endpoint, and the animals nearest the route are the ones most habituated to people.

What the figures cannot settle

A single-day block count produces a number, and that number is not a trend. One day of counting in one year cannot distinguish a real change in the population from weather, observer effort, animal movement or the timing of the count relative to the calving season. To speak of a trend a manager needs a consistent series: the same blocks, comparable effort, similar conditions, repeated across years. Where the method changes, the series breaks, and the new figure is not comparable with the old one. The annual census is useful, but a single year's total should not be read as a verdict on whether the species is recovering or declining.

The count also says little about sex ratio and age structure unless the teams record them, and recording them from a distance on broken ground is hard. A total that mixes adult males, females, young and animals of unknown class tells you roughly how many tahr were seen, not whether the population is breeding well. Disease is another blind spot. A count cannot detect an outbreak that has not yet produced visible mortality or obvious sickness, and it cannot tell you whether the animals seen are in good condition. The figure is a snapshot of presence, not a health report.

There is a distinction that gets lost in publicity: a count is not an estimate. A count records what was seen in defined blocks on a defined day. An estimate uses that observation, plus assumptions about detection and about the area not covered, to infer a population. The two are different objects, and the difference matters when a number is quoted to justify a decision. A block count in a park with cliffs, shola thickets and animals that move across boundaries will undercount to some degree, and the size of that undercount is not known with confidence. Treating the raw count as the population is a category error.

The boundary problem compounds this. Tahr move across the park edge and across the state line into the neighbouring landscape in Tamil Nadu, and an animal counted on one side of a line is the same animal that may be counted on the other side in a synchronised exercise. Recent counts have been run with coordination between the two forest departments precisely for this reason. Even so, a one-day count cannot resolve movement, and the same animal seen twice, or missed twice, remains a possibility the method accepts rather than eliminates.

Who the count serves

The census serves forest managers first. A park that must decide how many visitors the tourism zone can take, where to place staff, when to close and what to protect needs a working figure, and the annual count supplies one. It also serves the department's planning for habitat work, fire lines, patrol routes and the fringes where grazing and encroachment questions arise. The count is an operational input, and for that purpose a consistent, repeatable method matters more than a precise total. Managers can act on a figure that is comparable year to year even when it is not exact.

Researchers are the second constituency, and their use of the count is more cautious. A long series from a stable method is valuable for questions about distribution and broad change, and it feeds into wider assessments of the species. But researchers generally want the raw block data, the effort, the conditions and the method notes, not the headline total. The count becomes scientifically useful when the department publishes enough of the underlying record for others to judge what it can support. Where only the total is released, the research value is limited, and independent analysis is constrained by what is not shown.

The state's conservation claims are the third user, and this is where the count is most heavily worked. A rising figure is presented as evidence of successful protection; a falling or static figure invites awkward questions. That is not a reason to distrust the census, but it is a reason to read the framing carefully. The count is a management tool that also functions as a public scorecard, and the two uses pull in different directions. A department that publishes method, effort and limitations alongside the number is doing more for the species than one that publishes only the number that suits the season.

Who the count does not serve is the visitor looking for a guaranteed wildlife sighting. The census is not a tourism product, and its timing is set by biology and logistics, not by the holiday calendar. Nor does it serve anyone who wants a single authoritative figure to settle an argument about the park's future. The count is one input among several, and the arguments about access, grazing, road widening and tourism volume will not be resolved by a one-day tally, however carefully it is run. Anyone who expects the number to end those debates will be disappointed.

What to do with the number

Treat the annual figure as one input among several, and ask what kind of number it is before using it. A block count total is an index of what was seen on a day under a stated method; it is not a population estimate and it is not a trend on its own. To judge direction, look for a run of comparable years. To judge reliability, look for the method, the blocks, the effort and the conditions. Where those are not published, the number can still be reported, but it should be reported with the caveat that the basis is not fully visible, and the caveat is part of the fact.

The authorities that publish the underlying material are identifiable. The Kerala Forest Department issues the census outcome, the park notifications and the closure dates for Eravikulam National Park, and it is the body to consult for permits and park rules. The Tamil Nadu forest department is the counterpart where synchronised counts cross the state line. The Survey of India is the source for altitudes and mapping of the shola-grassland belt. The India Meteorological Department publishes the rainfall and monsoon record that shapes the grassland. The IUCN Red List is the standing assessment of the species' conservation status.

For the reader planning a visit, the number should change behaviour in only modest ways. It does not tell you whether the park will be open on a given date: the Kerala Forest Department's closure notification does that, and the dates move each season. It does not guarantee a sighting. It does not tell you how crowded the single visitor path will be on the day. What it does is place the park in context: this is the stronghold of a fragmented, endangered species, and access to it is managed, restricted and periodically shut for biological reasons rather than convenience.

The uncomfortable close is that the tahr does not need the publicity as much as the grassland does. The shola-grassland habitat is the narrower resource, and it is under pressure from fire, invasive plants, grazing on the fringes and the road and tourism economy around Munnar. A count of animals is easier to publish than a count of hectares of intact habitat, and the second number is the one that will decide the first over the coming decades. Read the tahr figure, then ask what is being counted for the grass, and by whom. That question is the one the annual census, by its design, does not answer.

Questions people ask

When is the tahr census held?

The count is usually run in the dry season, before the southwest monsoon, and the Kerala Forest Department publishes the date each year. It is a single-day exercise across defined blocks. Dates move, so the department's notification is the only reliable source.

Why does Eravikulam close each year?

The park closes for a period around the tahr calving season, when disturbance is most damaging. The closure is a management decision by the Kerala Forest Department, and its dates change from year to year. Visitors should check before planning.

Can the census number be trusted?

It is a count, not a statistical estimate, and it depends on visibility and observer effort. It shows what was seen on one day, not the true population. Trends matter more than any single year's figure, and even trends need several years of comparable method.

Is the Nilgiri tahr endangered?

The species is listed as endangered on the IUCN Red List, and its range is small and fragmented. The Western Ghats population is the only one. A single bad year, disease or habitat loss can matter greatly at this scale.

Where this page comes from

Altitude and area figures for Eravikulam National Park rest on Survey of India mapping and on Kerala Forest Department notifications. Rainfall and the monsoon pattern come from the India Meteorological Department, which publishes district and station records.

The census method and closure dates are published by the Kerala Forest Department, which runs the count with Tamil Nadu forest staff in synchronised years. No count figure is printed here because the department revises it.

Population figures for the Nilgiri tahr are not reproduced on this page. The Census of India does not count wild animals; wildlife figures come from state forest departments and are not comparable to human census data.

No business, resort, tour operator or homestay paid to appear, and none is named. Where this page names a town or a park, it does so because it is a public place recorded in government sources.

Words used here
shola A patch of stunted evergreen forest found in folds of high-altitude grassland in the Western Ghats. tahr A wild goat-antelope of the Western Ghats; the Nilgiri tahr is the region's endemic species. bounded count A census method in which observers count all animals seen within defined blocks, not a statistical estimate. grassland The open high-altitude meadow between shola patches, on which tahr graze and depend for forage. calving The season when tahr give birth, when the park closes part of its area to visitors.

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