Anchuthengu, also called Anjengo, is about 12 kilometres north of Varkala along the coast. The easiest way to get there is by taxi or auto-rickshaw; a one-way trip takes around 25 minutes and should cost roughly 300 to 400 rupees. Buses also run from Varkala bus station towards Kallambalam, but you will need to change for Anchuthengu, which adds time. For a stress-free day, I would book a taxi for the round trip, including a couple of hours waiting time, for around 800 to 1,000 rupees. Start by 8.30am to avoid the heat.
The main draw is the Anchuthengu Fort, a 17th-century British East India Company outpost. The laterite walls and the old cemetery are worth a look, but do not expect a polished monument: the site is unfenced and somewhat overgrown. Entry is free, and you can walk around in 30 to 45 minutes. There is no café or shop, so carry water. The fort is not suitable for wheelchair users. After the fort, head to the nearby beach, a quiet stretch of sand where local fishermen operate. Swimming is not advisable due to strong currents, but it is a peaceful spot for a picnic.
From Anchuthengu, continue north to the backwater edge around Edava and Kappil. The Kappil backwaters, where the lake meets the sea, are about 6 kilometres from Anchuthengu and a further 10 minutes by car. Here you can hire a small paddle boat or a motorised boat for a short ride through the canals. A 30-minute paddle boat ride should cost around 200 to 300 rupees per person, and a motorised boat for up to four people around 800 rupees. The best time is early morning or late afternoon when the light is soft and birdlife is active. Do not expect a major tourist hub; facilities are basic.
For a longer backwater experience, head to the Pozhi backwaters near Kappil, where you can hire a canoe for a 1-hour ride through narrow canals lined with coconut palms. This is not a typical tourist route, so arrange your boat through your hotel or a local operator in Varkala. Alternatively, drive to Varkala's own backwater area at Panayil, but Kappil is quieter. I would skip the crowded houseboat tours from Alappuzha and opt for this low-key paddle. Combine it with a visit to the nearby Kappil beach, which has a striking view of the backwater and the sea.
There are few restaurants in Anchuthengu itself; the best option is to eat at the small local eateries near the bus station serving Kerala breakfast items like appam and stew, or parotta and beef. A meal for two should cost 150 to 250 rupees. For a more comfortable sit-down lunch, return to Varkala and eat at one of the cliff-top cafés, where a main dish costs 250 to 400 rupees. If you want to stay near the backwaters, there are a couple of homestays in Edava, but I would base myself in Varkala, which has a wider range of hotels and restaurants.
The best months for this day trip are October to March, when the weather is dry and temperatures are pleasant. Avoid the monsoon months of June to August, as the backwater paths can be muddy and boat operators may not be available. The fort is open year-round during daylight hours; there is no entry fee. Carry sunscreen, a hat and insect repellent, as mosquitoes are present near the backwaters. Also bring cash, as there are no ATMs in Anchuthengu or Kappil. The roads are narrow in places, so if you are driving yourself, be cautious.
Varkala has three main areas to stay: the cliff-top, the north cliff and the town centre. The cliff-top is where most travellers stay, with guesthouses and small hotels offering sea views. Prices range from 1,500 to 4,000 rupees per night. The north cliff is quieter and has a more relaxed vibe, while the town centre is cheaper but lacks the views. For this day trip, I would book a hotel on the north cliff, as it is closer to the road north towards Anchuthengu and offers easy access to the backwaters. The cliff-top can be crowded and noisy in peak season.
If you prefer a quieter base, consider staying in Edava or Kappil, where there are a few homestays, but amenities are limited. For most travellers, Varkala is the best choice because it has a range of hotels, restaurants and transport options. When booking, look for places that offer airport pickup or can arrange taxis for the day trip. The nearest airport is Trivandrum International, about 50 kilometres away, and the drive takes around 1 hour and 15 minutes. The nearest railway station is Varkala Sivagiri, which is well connected to major cities in Kerala.
How do I get from Varkala to Anchuthengu?
The easiest way is by taxi or auto-rickshaw, which takes about 25 minutes and costs around 300-400 rupees one way. Buses are available but require a change at Kallambalam. For a round trip with waiting time, expect to pay 800-1,000 rupees.
Is the Anchuthengu Fort worth visiting?
Yes, if you are interested in history and enjoy off-the-beaten-path sites. The fort is a ruined 17th-century British outpost with laterite walls and a cemetery. Entry is free, and you can explore in under an hour. It is not a polished tourist attraction.
Can I swim at Anchuthengu beach?
No, swimming is not advisable due to strong currents. The beach is quiet and good for a stroll or picnic, but there are no lifeguards. Stick to wading near the shore.
What is the best time to visit the backwaters near Anchuthengu?
Early morning or late afternoon is best for soft light and birdwatching. The dry season from October to March is ideal. Avoid the monsoon (June-August) when paths are muddy and boats may not operate.
How much does a boat ride in the Kappil backwaters cost?
A 30-minute paddle boat ride costs around 200-300 rupees per person. A motorised boat for up to four people is about 800 rupees for a short ride. Prices are negotiable, and it's best to arrange through your hotel.
Where can I eat near Anchuthengu?
There are small local eateries near the bus station serving Kerala breakfast and lunch for 150-250 rupees for two. For more options, return to Varkala's cliff-top cafés, where a main dish costs 250-400 rupees.
Should I stay in Varkala or near the backwaters?
Varkala is the better base for this day trip, with more hotels, restaurants and transport. The north cliff area is convenient for driving north. Homestays in Edava or Kappil are quieter but have limited amenities.
What should I pack for this day trip?
Carry water, sunscreen, a hat, insect repellent and cash (no ATMs in Anchuthengu or Kappil). Wear comfortable shoes for walking around the fort. Bring a picnic if you plan to spend time at the beach.
